Tilt Lockout Solenoid SV1 and Parking Brake Solenoid SV2 are both marked "HYDRAFORCE 36V" and look identical, but have slightly different numbers embossed: Tilt back seems to work regardless, even when there are no leads attached to Tilt Lockout Solenoid SV1. Tilt forward is the only function which is not performing. If this is wrong I'm sure you will let me know!
All the switches at the levers/spool controllers for Raise, Shift, Tilt read the same (+10V on the common supply wire to all switches, and -26V on each accompanying switch lead). (To me, these +10V / -26V readings don't seem very straight-forward, I expected +36V / 0V, but I assume the system is designed that way, it clearly adds up to the required 36V. From this I would confirm that logically, the Parking Brake is on without being energized and off when energized. Engaging the Brake switch (to "ON") removes the +10V, on the smaller positive lead, leaving 0v to chassis ground, and the larger negative lead remains at -26V to chassis ground. Disengaging the Brake switch (to "OFF") provides +10V between the smaller positive lead to chassis ground, the larger negative lead remains at -26V to chassis ground. That's weird because I would think that replicates the condition it gets from the parking Brake wires when it is working. (either entirely unplugged, or with just the +10V unplugged and the -26V still plugged in). If it needs to be NOT energized to allow tilt, it should be working when unplugged, which it does not. If it needs to be energized to allow tilt, it should be working. Engaging/disengaging the tilt lever does not affect the voltage readings on the SV1 leads, they read +10V positive lead, -26V Negative lead. When wired this way and the Parking Brake switch is DISENGAGED (OFF, no brake), the Lift Tilts Forward when the tilt lever is activated. I got Tilt Forward to operate by moving the Parking Brake Solenoid (SV2) electrical leads and attaching them to the Tilt Lockout Solenoid (SV1). While I think this rules out Hydraulic problems, I need help understanding where I should look next, considering the conditions. I have managed to get the tilt working, though only in a trouble-shooting state. Thanks guys, those are definitely helpful points which I wasn't aware of.
Since the battery is in good condition in terms of output and capacity, it would be a shame to have to recycle it because of this, but are you guys thinking that's what needs to happen? Can I disassemble the battery into the 18 individual cells without removing the acid, clean all the corrosion, reassemble and be good to go? Or are they often glued together in banks? It looks like it would be hard to get a handle on an individual cell to pull it out. So, how can 18 sealed plastic battery housings drain current to the case? I understand that's what's happening but just don't get HOW, exactly. In some places there isn't enough of a gap between case and battery to get a tool inside, though. That's making sure that all around the tops of the batteries there are no deposits. Scrubbing the battery tops and gaps for three hours only got me from +10V to +12V on the positive posts at the contactors. To confirm, measuring the battery leads directly: +37V Positive to Frame: +13V and Infinite resistance (open) Negative to Frame: -24V and No resistance (closed circuit) - OUCH Most surprisingly, Tilt Lockout still seems functional when the solenoid is supplied by those wires, as I cannot go above Staging height when tilted far forward, and I cannot tilt far forward when above staging height. They do not provide power when the key is off, which is good.
#CROWN ELECTRIC SIT DOWN FORKLIFT MANUAL#
The wires are #547 and #2993, I can't find anything in my manual about them. When the key is on the positive lead provides 7.1 V.
In the meantime, I'm able to use the lift normally by extending two capped, unused wires to the tilt solenoid. Since I'm still no wiser as to why the tilt works when the solenoid gets 7.1 V from a random power lead and doesn't work when it gets 7.0 V from the wire that's intended for it, I'm just going to order a new solenoid coil and o-ring kit for SV1, it won't run more than $70 total. However, it didn't resolve the tilt issue, as you guys indicated. After isolating the battery case yesterday with some large rubber sheets I had laying around, the +13V I measured between Battery Positive and Frame dropped to 0.
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